Types of Applications
Zippers in...
- fleece
- pants
- skirts
- pockets
- side seams
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Everything I Know About Zippers
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You will see in the sidebar what I have planned for this page, and if the item appears as a link, what is
here now.
Many people would rather chew nails than sew a zipper into a garment,
but avoiding zippers severely limits what you can make.
The big problem seems to be getting past the zipper pull.
I've read many ingenious solutions to this problem, but the most common
one goes like this:
"I always use a longer zipper; example for a skirt where you need a 7-inch zipper, I get a 9-inch one. When sewing the zipper in, I let the extra length hang off the top. Then I bartack the top and cut off the excess."
There is really no need to go to that extra trouble and expense,
not to mention the risk of ruining the zipper completely. If you
remember to put the needle down first, you can raise the presser
foot and move that pull anywhere you want.
Before you start to install any zipper, read Keying a Zipper, and be sure to follow the steps in Tips for Perfect Zippers. Then go to the type of zipper
application you are using.
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Keying a zipper
This is the single most important tip I've ever
learned for setting perfect zippers. It's from
Claire Shaeffer's wonderful book, High Fashion
Sewing Secrets, p.96 (quoted with permission)
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To key the zipper, close the zipper and stitch
across the zipper tapes above the top stop. Then
clip the stitching between the zipper tapes.
If your zipper is in a dress or blouse, stitch 1/4
inch (6 mm) above the stop to leave room for a hook and
eye.
If the zipper is in pants or a skirt, stitch
only 1/8 inch (3 mm) above the top stop. |
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To key the garment, staystitch across the
neckline (or waistline) just inside the seamline.
Before continuing, check to be sure both sides of
the opening are the same length between the key
stitching and the end of the opening. Clip the
threads between the sides of the garment.
Align the stitching on the zipper to the
stitching on the garment when you set in the
zipper.
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Tips for perfect zippers
from Clare Schaeffer High Fashion Sewing Secrets, p 112
- use the correct length of zipper
- set the zipper before assembling the garment, while the sections are still flat
- finish the seam allowances before beginning to set the zipper
- chalk-mark the seamline
- instead of basting the garment opening, carefully press the seam allowances under, according to the type of application you are using
- always stay the opening by applying strips of fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the seam allowances
- always key the top of the zipper and the garment
- steam press the zipper to remove any creases or wrinkles
- make your zipper self-basting by using wash-away basting tape
- ease the fabric to the zipper tape. The minimum amount of ease is 1/8 inch of fabric to 12 inches of zipper
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Inserting a centered zipper
Photos below are of a set of samples I made for my Durham
College classes to illustrate the steps in sewing a centered zipper, which
explains why the zippers are different colours. Contrasting thread, with
different colours in needle and bobbin was used to show up on the samples.
When sewing a zipper into a garment, you would of course use matching zipper
and thread colours.
Step 1. Prepare the elements
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- stitch key lines on the garment's upper seamline and the zipper tapes
- use bias strips of interfacing slightly narrower than the seam allowances
- clean finish the raw edges
- mark where the bottom stop of your zipper actually falls
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Step 2. Sew the garment seam
Starting at the bottom of the garment, match the raw edges with right sides
together and any notches matching, stitch the seam up to your mark for the
bottom zipper stop. Reinforce this point by backstitching.
Press the seam open. Continue to press the seam allowances back along the
opening for the zipper. Press again, on the right side, making sure there are
no bubbles or tucks at the bottom of the zipper opening.
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Step 3. Stitch the zipper tapes to the seam allowances
Change the presser foot to a zipper foot.
Lay the garment, wrong side up, with the top closest to you.
Lay the zipper, face down, on the seam allowances, with the top closest to you.
Pin, baste, or Wondertape® one side of the zipper tape to the seam
allowance ONLY, carefully matching the key lines at top and keeping the
zipper teeth or coil centered on the pressed edge of the opening. |
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Flip the rest of the garment away to your left. Using your zipper foot, start
at the bottom of the zipper tape and stitch
the zipper to the seam allowance, keeping your stitching in the middle of
the zipper tape.
When you are within an inch or two of the top zipper pull, put the needle down,
raise the presser foot and slide the pull down past the needle and out of your
way. Put the presser foot back down and continue stitching to the top of the
zipper tape. Lock your stitching at both the beginning and end of the seam.
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Again, lay the garment wrong side up, with the top closest to you and
fasten the other side of the zipper to the other seam allowance, being careful
about matching the key lines and keeping the teeth centered.
If you have trouble keeping the pressed seam edges together under your zipper,
hold them together temporarily with a piece of tape on the right side.
Stitch the zipper in the same way, to this seam allowance ONLY. |
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Step 3. "Topstitch" the zipper opening
--except we are going to 'topstitch' from the underside. |
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I find it easier to keep my stitchlines straight and even when the feed dogs aren't fighting with the zipper coil, so I do this last step from the 'wrong' side. Before starting to stitch, be sure the folded edges of the seam allowances are lying flat, and meeting over the centre of the zipper coil. Keep your stitching exactly 1/4 inch from the zipper coil. Stitch down one side (moving the zipper pull out of your way as necessary) until you are one or two stitches past the bottom zipper stop. Pivot and stitch across the bottom of the zipper, until you are exactly 1/4 inch away on the other side. Pivot again and stitch to the top. While stitching, stop every once in a while and lift the garment up to check that everything is still in position underneath.
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Voila! A perfectly-finished, centred zipper.
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I like a fly front zipper with the teeth inset 1/2
inch from the centre front fold on the overlap
(right-hand) side, and a fly shield behind the
zipper teeth on the underlap (left-hand) side.
This means that the waistband must be cut with an
extension beyond CF on the underlap side to
enclose the width of the fly shield, but since I
also like the waistband to extend beyond centre
front on the overlap side, both front waistband
pieces can be cut the same.
Photos below are of a sample I made, using muslin. The wrong
side of the fabric is cross-hatched. Centre front
lines are marked in red.
Step 1. Adapt the pattern
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Cut the pant or skirt fronts with
seam allowances that extend 1 inch beyond centre
front line, for the length of the zipper teeth,
then curve this extension back to the normal seam
allowance so that it ends 3/4 inch below the
bottom zipper stop. On the underlap side (the
left-hand side for women), trim the extension
back to 5/8 inch beyond centre front.
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Cut 2 fly shield pieces, the same width and shape as the overlap
extension, but with 1/4 inch seam allowances
added to the curved edge. The under shield piece
may be cut from self-fabric or from lining.
Step 2. Prepare all the elements
- interface the seam allowances and the under shield piece
- construct the fly shield by sewing the two pieces together
along the curved edge; notch the curve, turn and press
- key the zipper and the waist seamline on all pieces
- clean finish all raw edges
- press overlap extension to inside on centre front line
- chalk mark the topstitching line on right side of front
overlap side, or do as I do and use a template
- stitch the crotch seam on pants fronts (or the centre front
seam on a skirt) to the zipper stop mark
Step 3. Sew the zipper and the fly shield to the underlap side
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Lay the zipper face down on right
side of the underlap extension, with the edge of
the zipper tape aligned with the edge of the
extension, and the key lines matching. Pin,
baste, or --my preference-- Wondertape.
Lay the fly shield on top of the zipper, with the straight edge of the
shield aligned with the zipper tape and extension
edges and key lines matched.
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Pull the zipper pull down. Using a zipper foot, start at the top and
stitch this 'sandwich' together, 1Ž4 inch from the
edge. When you have stitched about two-thirds of
the way down, stop, with the needle down, raise
the presser foot and pull the zipper pull back up
to the top. Continue stitching to the bottom of
the shield.
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Turn the zipper and shield back so the zipper is face up. Press.
Depending on the weight of your fabric, you may wish to topstitch the edge of the fold to the zipper,
stitching through the shield as well.
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Step 4. Sew the zipper to the overlap side
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Fold the overlap extension out, away from the pant. Place the zipper face down on
the extension with the edge of zipper tape aligned with the edge of the extension. Be sure
the key lines at the top match. Pin, baste, or use Wondertape.
Pull the zipper pull down. Using a zipper foot, start at the top and
stitch the zipper tape to the extension only.
When you have stitched about two-thirds of the way down, stop, with the needle down, raise the
presser foot and pull the zipper pull back up to
the top. Continue stitching to the bottom of the zipper tape.
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Step 5. Topstitch (this is the only tricky part)
Fold the extension back to the inside. Topstitch on the right side, following
your chalkline or template. Stop stitching exactly at Centre Front. Keep the fly shield and underlap zip
folded away so that you don't catch them in the topstitching.
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Unless the extra length inside the garment will be irritating,
I prefer NOT to cut zippers, but to shorten them by simply stitching
a new bottom-stop across the coil or teeth, either by hand or
(very carefully) by machine.
Sometimes, however, you may really need to perform surgery on
a zipper. This is how to do it.
To Shorten a Coil Zipper
To do this, you just need a pair of scissors:
- Pull zipper slider down out of the way
- Mark the desired length on the zipper tape
- Cut off excess zipper tape to within about 1 inch of your mark
- Fold the extra inch under and back towards the slider. Pin or tack in place.
To Shorten a Tooth Zipper
You will need: 2 top-stops, scissors, and pliers or nail clippers
- Pull zipper slider down out of the way
- Mark the desired length on the zipper tape
- Cut off the excess zipper tape to within 1 inch of your mark
- Remove the small zipper teeth between your mark and the cut end of the
zipper tape. Remove them one at a time with nail clippers or pliers,
being careful not to cut into the tape itself.
- Place a top-stop at the end of the teeth on each side and
press firmly in place.
- Fold the extra inch under and back towards the slider. Pin
or tack in place
To Change a Separating to a Non-Separating Zipper
You will need: 1 bottom-stop, scissors, pliers or nail clippers
- Do the zipper up. Cut off the bottom joining teeth of the zipper.
- With your fingers, gently separate the bottom 1 to 2 inches of zipper.
Remove the last few zipper teeth one at a time with nail
clippers or pliers, being careful not to cut into the tape itself.
- Push the bottom teeth of the zipper together with your
fingers and clamp a bottom stop into place below them.
Seal the zipper tape raw edges
You can use a lighted match to seal the raw edges of
the zipper tape when you have cut it. Hold the edges just above
the flame. The fabric will melt slightly and then will not
ravel. Just be very careful.
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